Wednesday, April 4, 2007

Three libraries, two huge meals, and another amazing day


Once again, the high life is interfering with my sleep. It is 12 p.m. and we just got home from our second multicourse meal of the day. So, I will work fast and get to bed.

Today started with an absolutely fascinating visit to the Help Center – a private nonprofit center for children with disabilities. Young people receive services from birth until 21.
Students with down’s syndrome, cerebral palsy, vision and hearing problems, etc. are offered a wide variety of therapies. Parents pay, if they are able. The building was simply stunning. The children were enchanting. And the level of therapy was amazing. While Saudi Arabia has not had children with problems resulting from drug or alcohol problems in their families, it is apparently not uncommon to have genetic problems that are carried through the generations by intermarrying among family members. I learned so much and was so impressed. And the library was wonderful – staffed today by a graduate.

Then we went to the Sophia Binzaqu Art Gallery. Sophia Binzaqu gave us the tour. She has tried to preserve Saudi heritage and tradition in her artwork. All the work in the museum is hers and she has a beautiful studio where she continues to paint. She also has an art program the includes classes at the gallery and contests in the schools. The arts have not routinely been included in the school curricula and she does her best to change that. The building is free and includes an art library that has all of her personal books. I spoke with the librarian for a long time and asked to take a picture. I bought several prints that I really like. Amazingly, I wandered into a women’s art course (men are not allowed) and found a group of young women in art. They were dressed in jeans and t-shirts and looked like young people in our country. (That is why men weren’t allowed).No abayas to be seen. They conversed with me for awhile – asking many questions about America- and then permitted me to take a picture.

Then we went for an amazing multicourse luncheon at the Byblos restaurant. This is a stunning Lebanese restaurant. The food just kept coming. At these meals, there are many local business and education leaders who are invited to join us. They sit with us and we share fascinating conversations. Sometimes when we realize who it was that we just talked with, it is simply amazing. I realize that these experiences could not be purchased and we are truly blessed by the opportunities that this trip has provided.

Two hours later we returned to the hotel briefly before departing for the Saudi Gazette newspaper plant. We got to see the Information Center (library) and I wandered around for awhile comparing their collection. We were given a lengthy tour by the editor and then we had a lengthy forum on the issues of the press – both American and Saudi- and how they influence our thinking on world issues. Many editors of the newspaper joined us for the forum. We had some very hard hitting conversation including discussion of freedom of the press and discussions on controversial issues such as AIDS, drugs, homosexuality.etc

Then we went to the Nuit D’or restaurant for the evening. It was a large banquet hall used for events like weddings. Dr. Ghazi Bin Zagr gave a speech at the beginning. It was about the challenges of building international bridges. He was VERY articulate and convincing about the barriers that come down when people talk to each other. When one does not really know much about someone else, one suspects his every move.We then continued the conversation over another giant meal that lasted several hours. We certainly have been treated to some incredible meals.

Tomorrow we go to the souks (markets) and then to the Fal Resort for a folkloric night.
Should be lots of fun and more informal. (Yes- we still get to wear our abayas to the souks)

Thanks to those of you who are writing comments on my blog and to my email. I love hearing from you too. This trip has been an amazing experience - and I look forward to each new day.

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Camels, Jeddah and the Red Sea



Here are a few pictures from the camel farm. As you can see, they were right up close and personal. Liability lawyers in the US would not approve. The gentleman is the owner – he knows every camel and all the details about them. I would too if I had that much invested. He had camels worth $5-$8 million dollars each.

I also put a few more pictures of the Gara Palace and Ib Rashim Pasha in the previous blog. It is beautiful

My hotel room is incredible. A small balcony provides this view of the Red Sea.
I will take some more pictures and show you the place. It is incredible.

Today we began with two stops in Jeddah. That allowed us to see some of the beautiful city. Jeddah is called the “city of art” and every boulevard has sculpture galore. I think I will just get a big book when I return so I can learn more about their art. The building architecture is also very exciting. And well done. We had lunch in the conch shell restaurant on the right in this picture. As usual, they had arranged for locals to eat with us. Often they are speakers from the morning. Today I ate with a woman who owns a marketing firm. She was WONDERFUL – helped us to understand a bit of what happened on the airplane last night and told us about the other side of Saudi life- the one you don’t see from the bus. She is standing in the middle. According to her, Jeddah has a more outside influences because everyone comes here from all over the world to do their Haj (the pilgrimage to Mecca required of all Muslims). She rolls up her eyes at some of the oddities of the Saudi culture but loves it very much.
Then we went to a private home owned by a Islamic architect and his wife who is an interior designer. They designed and built the house in 8 years. (They volunteered that they could do it for us in 3 years) It was unbelievable. And the picture doesn't do it justice.

Tonight we went to dinner at a seafood restaurant. We all sat on the floor and ate a delicious meal. Interesting arrangement of buildings- lots of separate little buildings allow different groups to eat out - for example, women can eat together in a little room and pull the curtains so they can remove their abayas. Same for families. And of course, men can do whatever they wish.

Monday, April 2, 2007

Camels, deserts and airplanes


Dear friends - I am now safely moved into the Jeddah Hilton. My room is simply gorgeous.
And I have internet access that will allow me to work on my own blog. Many thanks to Denise for doing a beautiful job keeping it up - using my pictures and a text document sent each day.

It would be impossible to tell you all of what we did today. We started at 7:15 and headed for the desert. First we headed for Gara Mountain - where we walked in a beautiful cave area with incredible peaks around us. No one would believe we were in Saudi Arabia- instead it looked like Arizona.

Then we went to the Ib Rahim Pasha Palace - a very old fort like palace. We walked around for a long time - and were so impressed with the old architecture. I think the place is about 400 years old (if not more)

Then we headed to a Pottery Business where we watched a man make pots the old way - first by kneeding clay with his feet and then hand throwing the pot. It was very neat.


Then we went to the Intercontinental in Hufuf - a large town in the desert - mainly because it is an oasis. The lunch was extraordinary - as always

At this point-my camera battery died. So I had friends take pictures at the camel farm and will try to post them tomorrow.

After lunch we headed to the camel farm. This is only the second trip that has gone there. Previous trips went to the camel market. One man knew of this bedoin (sp?) farmer with hundreds of camels on many many acres of land. And they arranged for us to go. While I was a tad disappointed that I didn't get to ride the camels (and maybe a bit relieved), we had an incredible experience- we road for a few miles in SUVs to this encampment with lots of camels. Then we went into one of the pens - and actually stood among the camels - which gets exciting when they decide to take off to another part of the area. The noise was lots of fun - I recorded it and will try to broadcast that tomorrow - sounded like someone who had either drunk too much or had the stomach flu. Then we were invited into a tent for tea and dates on the rugs. The sun was setting over the dunes - the camels were callling - and I was simply amazed to be so lucky to be there.
Our drive, although very long, was fascinating as we saw many many industrial sites (Aramco), many high dunes, sand storms across the highway, many monstrous houses in the middle of nowhere (often started but not finished), the Crown Prince's farm, miles of aquaducts.
We arrived back into Dharhan at 7:02, ran to our rooms, threw on our abayas, grabbed our suitcases, checked out and were headed for the airport at 7:35.
Then I had one of the more interesting experiences of my life. The plane was full of Saudis - almost everywoman had a full-face veil. The men were not interested in sitting next to unrelated women, so the stewardesses were shuffling people all over - until everyone was somewhere they could tolerate. Then there were probably 20-30 people doing Imman (sp)- preparing for their pilgrimmages to Mecca. As I understand it, they must come clean - and so these men were literally sitting in the airplane - naked except for bath towels wrapped around them. But we made it to Jeddah and this hotel was worth the effort. We ate dinner at 1 and here I am at two.
More later.

Sunday, April 1, 2007

A Full Abaya Day

Full Abaya Day

My abaya is now a part of me – it does cover a lot – but it is also hot.







The embroidery is quite pretty. Glad I don’t have to wear one every day.




Love that contrast –
McDonalds and a minaret.




Girls in a training center are preparing for professions in Aramco. They are already employees. Need a few more skills. When I asked to take their picture, some covered their heads and faces while others combed their hair.






The school library was SO much fun. I even stood behind the circulation desk while the librarian was out. She refused to be photographed.






Same old rules- no matter where you go.




Our men decided to buy gutras and thobes so that they would match us.

Now you can’t tell the Saudis from our men. Their conclusion tonight was that it was more trouble than it was worth. Wish we could say the same about our abayas.




Dinner at a place called Heritage Commons was served while sitting on the ground. The food was delicious (as always). The knees did not appreciate the sit.




Tomorrow we go camel riding in the desert! Then we fly to Jeddah- on the west coast. Maybe I’ll have better email over there.

Seven Favorite Pictures -- Day 1

Burger King Sign.


As we ride along in the bus, there are many “familiar” signs. I am pleased that I was able to get this quality while in a moving bus.






Abaya Fitting.

Abaya fitting at 4 p.m. Mandatory for all women. Our guide told the tailor not to go to sleep until they were finished. After dinner, they were delivered. Tomorrow we will no longer have to wear “formal business clothing.”




MooMoos.

Women were given these traditional gowns as gifts. The women who gave them to us said their grandmothers always wore them around the house. We had a hysterical time trying to wrap them around ourselves. Then the guides laughed hysterically when we posed for a picture. One told us it brought them back to their childhoods. We decided they were kind of like moo-moos.



Recycling Program.

There was a real push for recycling in March. Posters all over. (This one is in English because it is on the grounds of the Aramco compound where we are staying.)





A Private Home.

We visited a private home in the afternoon yesterday. The woman (shown talking) was a real collector. We were all sitting on cushions along the wall while she talked. As you can see, jet lag had set in.




A Business Woman.

This woman was our guide in the morning at Aramco. Later she joined us for dinner. She spoke for her fellow women in a most incredible manner. Articulate, opinionated, optimistic, and very very kind. Saudi Aramco is very fortunate to have her representing its business women.





Little Children.

Aramco brings ALL school children to their headquarters museum each year to encourage them to study hard and get ahead. I think they were more interested in us! But, they were perfectly behaved.






(Pictures proxy-posted by Denise.
If there are any problems with the pix, it's not Kris's fault. :))

Saturday, March 31, 2007

A Proxy Post -- Day One

Day One
I am safely in Dharhan Saudi Arabia and having a
wonderful time. Today we went to Aramco Oil
facilities and then later went out to a great seafood
restaurant.

Unfortunately, I am not able to post to my blog from
Saudi Arabia. They have blocked blogspot. I don't
know if that will change when we fly to Jeddah- but I
will try again.

I also have not been able to connect my wireless
network here- so I can't send pictures today either.
(I took 89 pictures today.)

My friend Denise is posting for me. If you want to
email me, I would love to hear from you at
kristinelbrown@yahoo.com.

Hope this improves soon.
Kris

Thursday, March 29, 2007

Going, Going, Gone

We are going to leave in a few hours for Saudi Arabia. This morning we had our "last minute" details meeting - lots of security issues, lots of don'ts.
Our trip is organized a bit differently than previous trips in that we are going to Jeddah on Monday rather than at the end of the trip. I think it is because the Arab League is meeting in Riyadh. Jeddah is on the Red Sea and so we will fly cross country and then return slowly.
Not sure if I will be able to scuba dive in the Red Sea because we are staying in the Jeddah Hilton instead of the Fal Resort. We'll see. I really want to do that!
This morning some go-getter teachers in our group taught us how to "count off" in Arabic. Whenever we get on the bus we count off. I am number 18 - and now I am tamaan tashar.
Yesterday was a busy day - In the morning we went to the Aramco Services building in Houston.
Aramco Services does many jobs for Aramco Oil in the U.S. Receive the oil shipments but also train people for SA, place SA students in US universities, work out research opportunities in the US with US universities, etc. A woman who had lived for 22 years in SA spoke to us about the country, what it is like to be there, etc. Then 4 alumni talked with us in the afternoon- one about "culture trunks" - things we can buy and bring back to show to classes- one about managing the press and speaking opportunities - one about library applications of what we learn- and one about Social Studies applications of what we learn. So it was fascinating. And very helpful.
Then I went to a Mexican restaurant for WONDERFUL margaritas and enchiladas with friends.
I really like the people I am traveling with. So far, we have a great group.
BTW- one fun thing yesterday was learning about fulla dolls. These are the Arabic version of Barbie dolls. If you want to be amazed, click on the link and look at all the products. Apparently the company is in Syria and they are making a mint! There is also an Arabic version of Sesame Street - not Sesame Street in Arabic but instead a similar show with Arabic content.
And now, we get ready for the LONG LONG flight. First to Amsterdam (8 hours), 5 hours in Amsterdam, and then on to Dharhan (6.5 hours).
I'll write again from the other side of the pond. Maassalehma!